Cold Cure Epoxy Application

Proportioning: Is an easy 2:1 ratio. 

The warmer the temperature, the less working time and the faster the cure will be.

Varying the amount of hardener will not speed up or retard the cure.  The 2 to 1 ratio must always remain accurate (use a measuring cup). Mix the two components very thoroughly, it is ready to apply.  Working time for one litre at 70 degrees F. or 20 deg. C is about 20 minutes and is fully cured in 6 – 8 hours.  Take into account that the colder the temperature, the longer the working time, and the slower the cure time.

 Sealer and Adhesive:

Great for tight joints, just spread with a brush or spatula; there is no need for clamping, just enough support to hold the pieces together until set.  Due to cold-Cure’s high penetration into wood, we recommend applying some of the mixed resin to both surfaces to be glued first. This is because it soaks into the wood and does not leave enough on the surface to completely wet out the opposite surface, resulting in a resin starved joint.

Gap Filler:

When using as a gap filler (for misaligned joints, spaces, cracks and holes) or gluing a vertical surface; Cold-Cure should be thickened with a non-sagging agent like talc or cabosil. This will assist in extending the coverage. Any large filling job should have sawdust or other available filler to add for thickening so that it does not run.  Once mixed thoroughly, add your filler slowly, so it does not clump and take care that all the filler particles are moistened with the resin. Keep adding filler until it peaks like whipped cream.  Thickened Cold-Cure will be stronger that the surface being filled.

Sheathing:

Cold-Cure for sheathing is an excellent, tough, flexible and impact –resistant resin for all fiberglass cloth; for example: roving (18oz), chopped matte (1.5 oz), veil (light weight), dynel (acrylic) and kevlar (nylon). Due to the starch binder in fiberglass materials it is not recommended for corners or curves because epoxies do not contain the styrene necessary to bread down the starch binder as do polyester resins.  See tabbing for corners.

 

(Note: stolen from Industrial Formulators of Canada Ltd.)

 


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