Securing a Vessel

When securing a vessel to a dock or float, examine the cleans, railings, etc. to determine if they are strong enough to hold the vessel. Following is the recommended manning in which vessels should be tied up to a dock or float. Vessels 20-40 feet in length 1. A proper lead bow line and stern line should be used. If mooring in a river or where a strong tie may be expected, a spring line should be run in the direction opposite of the current. 2. Be sure the lead of all lines are long enough to allow for the rise and fall of the tide. 3. If, due to the rising tide, there is any danger of the line pulling of the top of the cleat or piling, it is recommended that the eyes of the line be passed under the “bull rail” and then over the cleat or piling. 4. Be sure there are enough turns or wraps taken on the cleans aboard the boat to avoid half hitches if possible as they may jam in the event of great strain. 5. Lines should be at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch polypropylene for vessels up to 40 feet in length. Vessels over 40 feet in length 1. A proper lead bow and stern line should be used. In addition two spring lines, one leading forward and the other leading aft should be used. 2. The same precautions in items 2,3 and for above should be observed. 3. If your vessel is the outside  in a group, in addition to running lines to the adjoining vessel it is advisable to run an extra bow and stern line to the dock. 4. Lines should be at least 1 to 1-1/4 inch polypropylene for vessels over 40 feet in...
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Thickeners & Anti Sag

Epoxy is not an “Old World Craftsmanship in a Can”. A tight joint is superior to a wide one in every respect, but when fill is required, epoxy can do the job. To prevent resin from running out of the spaces before it has cured, an anti-sage agent must be used.


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The Eco Fee

Answers to common questions about why we charge an eco fee. As part of the Consumer Product Stewardship program, our industry-run program is for safe, effective collection of left over paints, solvents, flammable liquids, gas, diesel, oil and anti-freeze. This is not a government tax, but it is subject to GST & PST at the retail level. It is disclosed on a separate line of the invoice. Eco fees have been in place since October of 1994. Although we only started about five years ago; we implemented this fee only after finding engine oils in buckets that have over-flowed with rain water. It helps us with the recycling cost and safe disposal of leftover fluids. You can help by ensuring your empty paint can is placed the provided garbage can with its lid off. Bring all old gas, diesel, oil and anti-freeze to the office. We charge a nominal $1.00 per litre to collect and safely dispose of these hazardous fluids. Alternatively you can return it to wherever you purchased your fresh supply in their exchange program. Help us help the earth and comply with the Department of Fisheries by ensuring that none of these fluids find their way into the ocean. BC wide offers an information number for any further information that you might require at 1-800-505-0139 or here in the lower mainland at 604-878-8700. We too of course make ourselves available to answer and help with any of you marine relation disposal...
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Cold Cure Fact Sheet

This is the Rolls Royce of epoxy resins; a real problem solver! As a sealer it has excellent penetrating properties, with no fire risk from solvent. As a laminating resin it allows a tough but not brittle lay-up, even in temperatures too low for conventional epoxies; mostly due to their slow curing times and the thicker viscosity at lower temperatures. A wide variety of fillers may be used in conjunction with Cold-Cure. I may be thickened with talc to a consistency that is workable for the application. Higher temperatures provide convenient fast rapid work glue. As a glue it is thin enough to mix and work at temperatures as low as 2 degrees. Being absolutely insensitive to moisture once mixed it will cure and bond underwater. Just remember to mix in correct ration of 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. (Note: Stolen from Industrial Formulators of...
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Cold Cure Epoxy

Features: Cold-Cure has been one of the latest break-through in epoxy resin technology. The disadvantages of the earlier systems have been overcome. Studies were completed to provide the quality need to be used in adverse conditions for a variety of applications. Low Temperatures: An outstanding feature it the ability to remain workable and cure in temperatures just above freezing. Most resins are so viscous (thickened) at low temperatures they are extremely hard to pour in correct proportions, to be mixed and applied. Cold-Cure has a low enough viscosity that it enables pouring and working easy, even in cold temperature. Wet Conditions: One major drawback of standard epoxies is the fact that the hardener will react with any moisture rather than the epoxy, thereby destroying he hardener. The unique quality of Cold-Cure is that displaces the water and prefers to interact with the hardener, giving a bond to wet wood and damp fiberglass and even underwater surfaces. Flexibility: The older rapid curing epoxies had a design flaw that became a major draw back – that of the resulting reacting was so extreme that it produced a very brittle product. The current Cold-Cure product is flexible making it ideal for use with wood. 100% Solids: Cold-Cure is 100% solids (no solvents) which means it is completely waterproof and moisture vapor proof. Safety: Cold-Cure is very mild compared to some of the other systems available. There is low skin irritation, and being solvent free there is no danger of explosion. Thorough cleanliness should always be practiced, using soap and water for hands and acetone or laquer thinner for tools. (Note: Stolen from Industrial Formulators Marine...
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Cold Cure Epoxy Application

Proportioning: Is an easy 2:1 ratio.  The warmer the temperature, the less working time and the faster the cure will be. Varying the amount of hardener will not speed up or retard the cure.  The 2 to 1 ratio must always remain accurate (use a measuring cup). Mix the two components very thoroughly, it is ready to apply.  Working time for one litre at 70 degrees F. or 20 deg. C is about 20 minutes and is fully cured in 6 – 8 hours.  Take into account that the colder the temperature, the longer the working time, and the slower the cure time.  Sealer and Adhesive: Great for tight joints, just spread with a brush or spatula; there is no need for clamping, just enough support to hold the pieces together until set.  Due to cold-Cure’s high penetration into wood, we recommend applying some of the mixed resin to both surfaces to be glued first. This is because it soaks into the wood and does not leave enough on the surface to completely wet out the opposite surface, resulting in a resin starved joint. Gap Filler: When using as a gap filler (for misaligned joints, spaces, cracks and holes) or gluing a vertical surface; Cold-Cure should be thickened with a non-sagging agent like talc or cabosil. This will assist in extending the coverage. Any large filling job should have sawdust or other available filler to add for thickening so that it does not run.  Once mixed thoroughly, add your filler slowly, so it does not clump and take care that all the filler particles are moistened with the resin. Keep adding filler until it peaks like whipped cream.  Thickened Cold-Cure will be stronger that the surface being filled. Sheathing: Cold-Cure for sheathing is an excellent, tough, flexible and impact –resistant resin for all fiberglass cloth; for example: roving (18oz), chopped matte (1.5 oz), veil (light weight), dynel (acrylic) and kevlar (nylon). Due to the starch binder in fiberglass materials it is not recommended for corners or curves because epoxies do not contain the styrene necessary to bread down the starch binder as do polyester resins.  See tabbing for corners. (Note: excerpts from Industrial Formulators of Canada...
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