Boat Maintenance



Posted by on Oct 3, 2013 in Boat Maintenance | 0 comments

Docking a vessel should be done ideally into the wind or current, whichever is stronger, if they are present. The draft of the vessel must be known to the operator, as well as any water hazards that may like in the vessels path on its approach to the securing area. These can be known by consulting charts or local knowledge.

The dock lines should be at the ready before making contact with the dock, and visually confirm that the intended docking area is free of obstructions. Also that the cleats, rails, rings or posts are in good condition to secure the vessel.

Fenders are usually place to protect the hull and dock once the vessel is secured. The reason being that these air-filled fenders usually act as “balloons” which cause the vessel to “bounce” back away from the dock if the approach speed is not calculated to perfection. Again an operator should know the vessel best and what works.

Rafting up to other vessels is acceptable as long as precautions are taken to protect the other vessel from damage while contact is made. The operator of the first vessel at the dock has the right to refuse another vessels raft-up alongside of his vessel if he feels that it causes an unsafe situation. Nautical etiquette and courtesy usually prevails in most marine communities.

Undocking is usually done in reverse order: the vessel is put into reverse propulsion and “backs-out” stern first at roughly 30-50 degree angle until a vessels beam width away from the dock, brought parallel, stopped and slowly put into forward gear until the stern clears the dock where it can be steered in the intended direction. A vessel should not normally undock by going forward from its securing area as its stern will hit and drag along the dock, causing damage to both the vessel and the dock and possibly causing injury.

Running lights should be on when leaving a dock from sunset to sunrise or at any time during restricted visibility. Sounds and signals should also be utilized and comply with regulations.

Fire Fighting

Posted by on Aug 29, 2013 in Blog, Boat Maintenance, Safety | 0 comments

co2-fire-extinguisherAll crew members must know the location of all fire fighting equipment aboard their vessel, and the proper procedure for its use. Don not use fire extinguishers for anything but the use that the are intended for – fire fighting.

Water is the most readily available extinguisher  and can be used to fight most fires.  Use your bucket or wash down hoses whenever possible.

Fire above deck presents little difficulty if tackled promptly.

Fire below deck:  sound the alarm – if small act quickly and attack directly. CAUTION – avoid overexposure to smoke and extinguisher chemical fumes.  If fire is serious, sound continuous short whistle blasts.  Close hatches and doorways, ports, etc. and discharge Co2 extinguishers through small opening.

When all extinguishers are empty, close up tight and do not open until you are sure the fire is out.  If the vessel has steerage proceed to the nearest tie-up facility or shallow water.  If the fine is beyond control and no help is available, try to beach, anchor or scuttle before abandoning – a burning derelict is dangerous to other vessels and waterfront properties.

Be sure that all crew are accounted for.  The prime concern is life safety.

Report fires promptly regardless of size to the nearest authority.

Securing a vessel

Posted by on Aug 29, 2013 in Boat Maintenance | 0 comments

securing vesselWhen securing a vessel to a dock or float, examine the cleans, railings, etc. to determine if they are strong enough to hold the vessel.

Following is the recommended manning in which vessels should be tied up to a dock or float.

Vessels 20-40 feet in length

1. A proper lead bow line and stern line should be used. If mooring in a river or where a strong tie may be expected, a spring line should be run in the direction opposite of the current.

2. Be sure the lead of all lines are long enough to allow for the rise and fall of the tide.

3. If, due to the rising tide, there is any danger of the line pulling of the top of the cleat or piling, it is recommended that the eyes of the line be passed under the “bull rail” and then over the cleat or piling.

4. Be sure there are enough turns or wraps taken on the cleans aboard the boat to avoid half hitches if possible as they may jam in the event of great strain.

5. Lines should be at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch polypropylene for vessels up to 40 feet in length.

Vessels over 40 feet in length

1. A proper lead bow and stern line should be used. In addition two spring lines, one leading forward and the other leading aft should be used.

2. The same precautions in items 2,3 and for above should be observed.

3. If your vessel is the outside  in a group, in addition to running lines to the adjoining vessel it is advisable to run an extra bow and stern line to the dock.

4. Lines should be at least 1 to 1-1/4 inch polypropylene for vessels over 40 feet in length.

Welcome To Race Rock Yacht Services

Posted by on Aug 6, 2013 in Race Rock Yacht Services | 0 comments

Welcome To Race Rock Yacht Services

It is our pleasure to welcome you to Race Rock Yacht Services. Whether it will be your first visit or you are already old friends, you’ll find a warm welcome here. We have provided quality care for your power or sail boat since 1970.

Thickeners & Anti Sag

Posted by on Aug 6, 2013 in Boat Maintenance | 0 comments

resin epoxy fillersEpoxy is not an “Old World Craftsmanship in a Can”. A tight joint is superior to a wide one in every respect, but when fill is required, epoxy can do the job.  To prevent resin from running out of the spaces before it has cured, an anti-sage agent must be used.

All of the agents, when mixed in sufficient quantities, can hold the un-cured resin in the desired position until a cure is reached. They are not to be confused with fillers, (such as micro -balloons or sawdust) which have a different purpose.

The quantity of anti-sag required varies with the job. Once you become experience you will be able to estimate the quantity required to suit your needs.  A rough rule-of-thumb is two parts anti-sag to one part of mixed epoxy and hardener.  Always thoroughly mix the epoxy and hardener together before adding the anti-sag.

After all the ingredients are mixed well, lift a small amount out of the container with your mixing stick, the amount remaining on the spatula will indicate how much gap filling is possible.  If all but 1/8th runs off, then it will bridge a gap of 1/8th or less.  If 1/4” remains, fill up to1/4” is possible.

One part mixed epoxy and hardener plus two parts anti-sag equal approximately 1/8” filling.

One part mixed epoxy and hardener plus three parts anti-sag equal approximately 1/4” filling.

Other powders such as talc, sawdust, flour or cornstarch can be used, but the anti-sag powder (made of dehydrated silicon) has the best holding power.  We here at Race Rock Yacht Services find talcum powder to be the best for our daily use.  We add the talc powder and mix with a triangular blender on a drill. When the talc has been fully added and thoroughly mixed, we lift the blending stick upwards and it should make the epoxy look like stiffened whip cream, making peaks in the container.  It usually doubles the liquid amount.


The Eco Fee

Posted by on Aug 6, 2013 in Eco | 0 comments

The Eco Fee

ecogreenAnswers to common questions about why we charge an eco fee.

As part of the Consumer Product Stewardship program, our industry-run program is for safe, effective collection of left over paints, solvents, flammable liquids, gas, diesel, oil and anti-freeze.

This is not a government tax, but it is subject to GST & PST at the retail level. It is disclosed on a separate line of the invoice. Eco fees have been in place since October of 1994. Although we only started about five years ago; we implemented this fee only after finding engine oils in buckets that have over-flowed with rain water. It helps us with the recycling cost and safe disposal of leftover fluids.

You can help by ensuring your empty paint can is placed the provided garbage can with its lid off. Bring all old gas, diesel, oil and anti-freeze to the office. We charge a nominal $1.00 per litre to collect and safely dispose of these hazardous fluids. Alternatively you can return it to where ever you purchased your fresh supply in their exchange program.

Help us help the earth and comply with the Department of Fisheries by ensuring that none of these fluids find their way into the ocean.

BC wide offers an information number for any further information that you might require at 1-800-505-0139 or here in the lower mainland at 604-878-8700. We too of course make ourselves available to answer and help with any of you marine relation disposal issues.

Cold Cure Fact Sheet

Posted by on Aug 6, 2013 in Boat Maintenance | 0 comments

This is the Rolls Royce of epoxy resins; a real problem solver!

As a sealer it has excellent penetrating properties, with no fire risk from solvent.

As a laminating resin it allows a tough but not brittle lay-up, even in temperatures too low for conventional epoxies; mostly due to their slow curing times and the thicker viscosity at lower temperatures.

A wide variety of fillers may be used in conjunction with Cold-Cure. I may be thickened with talc to a consistency that is workable for the application. Higher temperatures provide convenient fast rapid work glue.

As a glue it is thin enough to mix and work at temperatures as low as 2 degrees. Being absolutely insensitive to moisture once mixed it will cure and bond underwater.

Just remember to mix in correct ration of 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener.

(Note: Stolen from Industrial Formulators of Canada.)

Cold Cure Epoxy

Posted by on Aug 6, 2013 in Boat Maintenance | 0 comments

Cold Cure Epoxy

Features: Cold-Cure has been one of the latest break-through in epoxy resin technology. The disadvantages of the earlier systems have been overcome. Studies were completed to provide the quality need to be used in adverse conditions for a variety of applications.

Low Temperatures: An outstanding feature it the ability to remain workable and cure in temperatures just above freezing. Most resins are so viscous (thickened) at low temperatures they are extremely hard to pour in correct proportions, to be mixed and applied. Cold-Cure has a low enough viscosity that it enables pouring and working easy, even in cold temperature.

Wet Conditions:

One major drawback of standard epoxies is the fact that the hardener will react with any moisture rather than the epoxy, thereby destroying he hardener. The unique quality of Cold-Cure is that displaces the water and prefers to interact with the hardener, giving a bond to wet wood and damp fiberglass and even underwater surfaces.

Flexibility: The older rapid curing epoxies had a design flaw that became a major draw back – that of the resulting reacting was so extreme that it produced a very brittle product.

The current Cold-Cure product is flexible making it ideal for use with wood.

100% Solids: Cold-Cure is 100% solids (no solvents) which means it is completely waterproof and moisture vapor proof.

Safety: Cold-Cure is very mild compared to some of the other systems available. There is low skin irritation, and being solvent free there is no danger of explosion. Thorough cleanliness should always be practiced, using soap and water for hands and acetone or laquer thinner for tools.

(Note: Stolen from Industrial Formulators Marine Division)

Cold Cure Epoxy Application

Posted by on Aug 6, 2013 in Boat Maintenance | 0 comments

Proportioning: Is an easy 2:1 ratio. 

The warmer the temperature, the less working time and the faster the cure will be.

Varying the amount of hardener will not speed up or retard the cure.  The 2 to 1 ratio must always remain accurate (use a measuring cup). Mix the two components very thoroughly, it is ready to apply.  Working time for one litre at 70 degrees F. or 20 deg. C is about 20 minutes and is fully cured in 6 – 8 hours.  Take into account that the colder the temperature, the longer the working time, and the slower the cure time.

 Sealer and Adhesive:

Great for tight joints, just spread with a brush or spatula; there is no need for clamping, just enough support to hold the pieces together until set.  Due to cold-Cure’s high penetration into wood, we recommend applying some of the mixed resin to both surfaces to be glued first. This is because it soaks into the wood and does not leave enough on the surface to completely wet out the opposite surface, resulting in a resin starved joint.

Gap Filler:

When using as a gap filler (for misaligned joints, spaces, cracks and holes) or gluing a vertical surface; Cold-Cure should be thickened with a non-sagging agent like talc or cabosil. This will assist in extending the coverage. Any large filling job should have sawdust or other available filler to add for thickening so that it does not run.  Once mixed thoroughly, add your filler slowly, so it does not clump and take care that all the filler particles are moistened with the resin. Keep adding filler until it peaks like whipped cream.  Thickened Cold-Cure will be stronger that the surface being filled.


Cold-Cure for sheathing is an excellent, tough, flexible and impact –resistant resin for all fiberglass cloth; for example: roving (18oz), chopped matte (1.5 oz), veil (light weight), dynel (acrylic) and kevlar (nylon). Due to the starch binder in fiberglass materials it is not recommended for corners or curves because epoxies do not contain the styrene necessary to bread down the starch binder as do polyester resins.  See tabbing for corners.


(Note: stolen from Industrial Formulators of Canada Ltd.)


Chopped Strand Matte

Posted by on Aug 6, 2013 in Boat Maintenance | 0 comments

Chopped Strand Matte

Fine strands for both gelcoat back up, repairs and standard reinforcement. 

The choice of reinforcement to be used is dependent upon the performance characteristics required of the finish product.  Each type of reinforcement has it own processing technique and benefit.


Due to faster wet-out and roll-out abilities it lowers labor costs.

It has excellent conformability, improved laminate clarity, with higher mechanical strengths, and a lower resin demand.


Chopped strand matte is designed for use in polyester resin systems.  Its fine strands make it ideal for many applications.  Commonly used to back up a gelcoat repair, and used in all standard laminating reinforcements.  It is available in 1 ounce to 3 ounces per square foot, anywhere from 2 inches to 50 inches.  Combined with other factors, the sizing assists with removal of air pockets and ease of roll out.


The physical properties of laminates made with matte are equivalent or better than other products.

Use:  Adaptable for nearly all hand lay-up applications.  It has a proven superior performance reputation with corrosion resistance, fiber prominence and general purpose hand layup polyester resins.  It virtually eliminates ‘glinting’ or ‘blush”.

Suitable end uses for marine applications, the private consumer and recreational transportation products.

Always dry store, keep package in corrugated cardboard cartons or hang off a rod for easy unrolling.


(Note: Taken from Fiberglass Canada 1978)

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