The Eco Fee

Answers to common questions about why we charge an eco fee. As part of the Consumer Product Stewardship program, our industry-run program is for safe, effective collection of left over paints, solvents, flammable liquids, gas, diesel, oil and anti-freeze. This is not a government tax, but it is subject to GST & PST at the retail level. It is disclosed on a separate line of the invoice. Eco fees have been in place since October of 1994. Although we only started about five years ago; we implemented this fee only after finding engine oils in buckets that have over-flowed with rain water. It helps us with the recycling cost and safe disposal of leftover fluids. You can help by ensuring your empty paint can is placed the provided garbage can with its lid off. Bring all old gas, diesel, oil and anti-freeze to the office. We charge a nominal $1.00 per litre to collect and safely dispose of these hazardous fluids. Alternatively you can return it to wherever you purchased your fresh supply in their exchange program. Help us help the earth and comply with the Department of Fisheries by ensuring that none of these fluids find their way into the ocean. BC wide offers an information number for any further information that you might require at 1-800-505-0139 or here in the lower mainland at 604-878-8700. We too of course make ourselves available to answer and help with any of you marine relation disposal...
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Securing a Vessel

When securing a vessel to a dock or float, examine the cleans, railings, etc. to determine if they are strong enough to hold the vessel. Following is the recommended manning in which vessels should be tied up to a dock or float. Vessels 20-40 feet in length 1. A proper lead bow line and stern line should be used. If mooring in a river or where a strong tie may be expected, a spring line should be run in the direction opposite of the current. 2. Be sure the lead of all lines are long enough to allow for the rise and fall of the tide. 3. If, due to the rising tide, there is any danger of the line pulling of the top of the cleat or piling, it is recommended that the eyes of the line be passed under the “bull rail” and then over the cleat or piling. 4. Be sure there are enough turns or wraps taken on the cleans aboard the boat to avoid half hitches if possible as they may jam in the event of great strain. 5. Lines should be at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch polypropylene for vessels up to 40 feet in length. Vessels over 40 feet in length 1. A proper lead bow and stern line should be used. In addition two spring lines, one leading forward and the other leading aft should be used. 2. The same precautions in items 2,3 and for above should be observed. 3. If your vessel is the outside  in a group, in addition to running lines to the adjoining vessel it is advisable to run an extra bow and stern line to the dock. 4. Lines should be at least 1 to 1-1/4 inch polypropylene for vessels over 40 feet in...
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Fire Fighting

All crew members must know the location of all fire fighting equipment aboard their vessel, and the proper procedure for its use. Don not use fire extinguishers for anything but the use that the are intended for – fire fighting. Water is the most readily available extinguisher  and can be used to fight most fires.  Use your bucket or wash down hoses whenever possible. Fire above deck presents little difficulty if tackled promptly. Fire below deck:  sound the alarm – if small act quickly and attack directly. CAUTION – avoid overexposure to smoke and extinguisher chemical fumes.  If fire is serious, sound continuous short whistle blasts.  Close hatches and doorways, ports, etc. and discharge Co2 extinguishers through small opening. When all extinguishers are empty, close up tight and do not open until you are sure the fire is out.  If the vessel has steerage proceed to the nearest tie-up facility or shallow water.  If the fine is beyond control and no help is available, try to beach, anchor or scuttle before abandoning – a burning derelict is dangerous to other vessels and waterfront properties. Be sure that all crew are accounted for.  The prime concern is life safety. Report fires promptly regardless of size to the nearest...
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Docking a vessel should be done ideally into the wind or current, whichever is stronger, if they are present. The draft of the vessel must be known to the operator, as well as any water hazards that may like in the vessels path on its approach to the securing area. These can be known by consulting charts or local knowledge. The dock lines should be at the ready before making contact with the dock, and visually confirm that the intended docking area is free of obstructions. Also that the cleats, rails, rings or posts are in good condition to secure the vessel. Fenders are usually placed to protect the hull and dock once the vessel is secured. The reason being that these air-filled fenders usually act as “balloons” which cause the vessel to “bounce” back away from the dock if the approach speed is not calculated to perfection. Again, an operator should know the vessel best and what works. Rafting up to other vessels is acceptable, as long as precautions are taken to protect the other vessel from damage while contact is made. The operator of the first vessel at the dock has the right to refuse another vessels raft-up alongside of his vessel if he feels that it causes an unsafe situation. Nautical etiquette and courtesy usually prevails in most marine communities. Undocking is usually done in reverse order: the vessel is put into reverse propulsion and “backs-out” stern first at roughly 30-50 degree angle until a vessels beam width away from the dock, brought parallel, stopped and slowly put into forward gear until the stern clears the dock where it can be steered in the intended direction. A vessel should not normally undock by going forward from its securing area as its stern will hit and drag along the dock, causing damage to both the vessel and the dock and possibly causing injury. Running lights should be on when leaving a dock from sunset to sunrise or at any time during restricted visibility. Sounds and signals should also be utilized and comply with...
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Thickeners & Anti Sag

Epoxy is not an “Old World Craftsmanship in a Can”. A tight joint is superior to a wide one in every respect, but when fill is required, epoxy can do the job. To prevent resin from running out of the spaces before it has cured, an anti-sage agent must be used.

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