Docking

Docking a vessel should be done ideally into the wind or current, whichever is stronger, if they are present. The draft of the vessel must be known to the operator, as well as any water hazards that may like in the vessels path on its approach to the securing area. These can be known by consulting charts or local knowledge. The dock lines should be at the ready before making contact with the dock, and visually confirm that the intended docking area is free of obstructions. Also that the cleats, rails, rings or posts are in good condition to secure the vessel. Fenders are usually place to protect the hull and dock once the vessel is secured. The reason being that these air-filled fenders usually act as “balloons” which cause the vessel to “bounce” back away from the dock if the approach speed is not calculated to perfection. Again an operator should know the vessel best and what works. Rafting up to other vessels is acceptable as long as precautions are taken to protect the other vessel from damage while contact is made. The operator of the first vessel at the dock has the right to refuse another vessels raft-up alongside of his vessel if he feels that it causes an unsafe situation. Nautical etiquette and courtesy usually prevails in most marine communities. Undocking is usually done in reverse order: the vessel is put into reverse propulsion and “backs-out” stern first at roughly 30-50 degree angle until a vessels beam width away from the dock, brought parallel, stopped and slowly put into forward gear until the stern clears the dock where it can be steered in the intended direction. A vessel should not normally undock by going forward from its securing area as its stern will hit and drag along the dock, causing damage to both the vessel and the dock and possibly causing injury. Running lights should be on when leaving a dock from sunset to sunrise or at any time during restricted visibility. Sounds and signals should also be utilized and comply with...
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Securing a vessel

When securing a vessel to a dock or float, examine the cleans, railings, etc. to determine if they are strong enough to hold the vessel. Following is the recommended manning in which vessels should be tied up to a dock or float. Vessels 20-40 feet in length 1. A proper lead bow line and stern line should be used. If mooring in a river or where a strong tie may be expected, a spring line should be run in the direction opposite of the current. 2. Be sure the lead of all lines are long enough to allow for the rise and fall of the tide. 3. If, due to the rising tide, there is any danger of the line pulling of the top of the cleat or piling, it is recommended that the eyes of the line be passed under the “bull rail” and then over the cleat or piling. 4. Be sure there are enough turns or wraps taken on the cleans aboard the boat to avoid half hitches if possible as they may jam in the event of great strain. 5. Lines should be at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch polypropylene for vessels up to 40 feet in length. Vessels over 40 feet in length 1. A proper lead bow and stern line should be used. In addition two spring lines, one leading forward and the other leading aft should be used. 2. The same precautions in items 2,3 and for above should be observed. 3. If your vessel is the outside  in a group, in addition to running lines to the adjoining vessel it is advisable to run an extra bow and stern line to the dock. 4. Lines should be at least 1 to 1-1/4 inch polypropylene for vessels over 40 feet in...
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Thickeners & Anti Sag

Epoxy is not an “Old World Craftsmanship in a Can”. A tight joint is superior to a wide one in every respect, but when fill is required, epoxy can do the job. To prevent resin from running out of the spaces before it has cured, an anti-sage agent must be used.


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Cold Cure Fact Sheet

This is the Rolls Royce of epoxy resins; a real problem solver! As a sealer it has excellent penetrating properties, with no fire risk from solvent. As a laminating resin it allows a tough but not brittle lay-up, even in temperatures too low for conventional epoxies; mostly due to their slow curing times and the thicker viscosity at lower temperatures. A wide variety of fillers may be used in conjunction with Cold-Cure. I may be thickened with talc to a consistency that is workable for the application. Higher temperatures provide convenient fast rapid work glue. As a glue it is thin enough to mix and work at temperatures as low as 2 degrees. Being absolutely insensitive to moisture once mixed it will cure and bond underwater. Just remember to mix in correct ration of 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. (Note: Stolen from Industrial Formulators of...
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Cold Cure Epoxy

Features: Cold-Cure has been one of the latest break-through in epoxy resin technology. The disadvantages of the earlier systems have been overcome. Studies were completed to provide the quality need to be used in adverse conditions for a variety of applications. Low Temperatures: An outstanding feature it the ability to remain workable and cure in temperatures just above freezing. Most resins are so viscous (thickened) at low temperatures they are extremely hard to pour in correct proportions, to be mixed and applied. Cold-Cure has a low enough viscosity that it enables pouring and working easy, even in cold temperature. Wet Conditions: One major drawback of standard epoxies is the fact that the hardener will react with any moisture rather than the epoxy, thereby destroying he hardener. The unique quality of Cold-Cure is that displaces the water and prefers to interact with the hardener, giving a bond to wet wood and damp fiberglass and even underwater surfaces. Flexibility: The older rapid curing epoxies had a design flaw that became a major draw back – that of the resulting reacting was so extreme that it produced a very brittle product. The current Cold-Cure product is flexible making it ideal for use with wood. 100% Solids: Cold-Cure is 100% solids (no solvents) which means it is completely waterproof and moisture vapor proof. Safety: Cold-Cure is very mild compared to some of the other systems available. There is low skin irritation, and being solvent free there is no danger of explosion. Thorough cleanliness should always be practiced, using soap and water for hands and acetone or laquer thinner for tools. (Note: Stolen from Industrial Formulators Marine...
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Cold Cure Epoxy Application

Proportioning: Is an easy 2:1 ratio.  The warmer the temperature, the less working time and the faster the cure will be. Varying the amount of hardener will not speed up or retard the cure.  The 2 to 1 ratio must always remain accurate (use a measuring cup). Mix the two components very thoroughly, it is ready to apply.  Working time for one litre at 70 degrees F. or 20 deg. C is about 20 minutes and is fully cured in 6 – 8 hours.  Take into account that the colder the temperature, the longer the working time, and the slower the cure time.  Sealer and Adhesive: Great for tight joints, just spread with a brush or spatula; there is no need for clamping, just enough support to hold the pieces together until set.  Due to cold-Cure’s high penetration into wood, we recommend applying some of the mixed resin to both surfaces to be glued first. This is because it soaks into the wood and does not leave enough on the surface to completely wet out the opposite surface, resulting in a resin starved joint. Gap Filler: When using as a gap filler (for misaligned joints, spaces, cracks and holes) or gluing a vertical surface; Cold-Cure should be thickened with a non-sagging agent like talc or cabosil. This will assist in extending the coverage. Any large filling job should have sawdust or other available filler to add for thickening so that it does not run.  Once mixed thoroughly, add your filler slowly, so it does not clump and take care that all the filler particles are moistened with the resin. Keep adding filler until it peaks like whipped cream.  Thickened Cold-Cure will be stronger that the surface being filled. Sheathing: Cold-Cure for sheathing is an excellent, tough, flexible and impact –resistant resin for all fiberglass cloth; for example: roving (18oz), chopped matte (1.5 oz), veil (light weight), dynel (acrylic) and kevlar (nylon). Due to the starch binder in fiberglass materials it is not recommended for corners or curves because epoxies do not contain the styrene necessary to bread down the starch binder as do polyester resins.  See tabbing for corners.   (Note: stolen from Industrial Formulators of Canada Ltd.)...
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